Russell and Waitangi

Lyall drove us north of Auckland to Russell through some heavy rain but beautiful country. We took a short car ferry across to the peninsula on which Russell stands and arrived early afternoon. We found our first floor studio apartment, looking out over Russell, which is small but with plenty of restaurants and cafes.

I walked up to Flagstaff Hill, so named to commemorate the four occasions in the 1840s when a Maori chief, Hone Heke, cut down the flagstaff flying the Union Jack. He felt his tribe had lost control to the British following the signing of the Waitangi Treaty. The place of the current flagstaff gives a good view over the harbour towards Paihia.

Next day we went to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, which have a fascinating history. In 1831, due to growing lawlessness among Europeans and fears of French annexation, 13 Maori chiefs sought protection from King William IV. Hesent James Busby to New Zealand as the British Resident. He arrived in 1833 and built a small house on land he bought at Waitangi.

The house was extended over the years with wings at the rear enclosing a courtyard. Busby attempted to act without authority, land transactions continued that defrauded the Maori and the British government decided to intervene. William Hobson was appointed consul under the authority of the Governor of New South Wales, George Gipps. He was instructed to obtain sovereignty over all or part of New Zealand and becomes Gipps' Lieutenant-general. He effectively replaced Busby.

Private land purchases from the Maori were prohibited and a treaty was drawn up. This was discussed with 500 Maori chiefs and the Treaty was signed on 6th February 1840. It was an historic occasion and is marked as a public holiday in New Zealand. Hobson proclaimed British sovereignty over all New Zealand (the North Island under the Treaty and the South by discovery), but conflicts continued for decades after.

James Busby had acquired more than 10,000 acres but apparently overextended himself and went bankrupt - not an uncommon story today! There were arguments about the true ownership of the land, but in 1932 Lord Bledisloe bought the house and surrounding land and gifted it to the people of New Zealand, who have free entry.

A Maori Meeting house was built near the old house, which is now a museum.

 

 

 

 

 

A Maori war canoe is housed near the beach.

Waitangi is a truly beautiful place and is immaculately kept. It captures so well the struggles between the Maori and Europeans (the Pakeha) in the history of New Zealand.


 

Robert Cole