COLOMBO TO KANDY

A long journey on the Sri Lankan A1 from Colombo to Kandy. It appears at first sight more prosperous and organised than we've generally seen in India. Better drivers, much less hooting, all motor cyclists wearing crash helmets - rarely seen in India.

There were many shops of varying quality along our route, some rather ramshackle. I'm not sure I would want to visit this dental surgery!

Our guide, Dharmin, said the 110k to Kandy was being upgraded and would end up lined with shops most of the way.

But there were views of paddy fields and plantations of pineapples, Mangoes, cashew nuts, peanuts - Dharmin said everything grows here, as it is wet, warm and the ground is fertile. He told us about Sri Lanka which had been under 450 years of colonial rule under the Portuguese and then the British, gaining independence in 1948. There is now a population of 21m of which 71% are Buddhist, 13% Hindu/Tamil, 8% Muslim and 8% Christian. The Sinhalese work for many British companies such as M & S and BHS.

At one point our coach was stopped by the police, as our driver had crossed a line where overtaking was forbidden -we were a bit late and he was trying to make up time. The driver got out to talk to the police and Dharmin said the problem was being solved by a payment. He told us later that payment was the equivalent of £2.50 and it was the normal way of dealing with such traffic offences. It has its attractions.

The president of Sri Lanka, Mr Rajapakse, is seeking a third term of another five years and posters of him are seen everywhere. Dharmin is clearly not a supporter and is pleased that the opposition parties have agreed on a candidate. He described Rajapakse as being one of the most powerful presidents in the world. The constitution allows him to appoint the Chief Justice and the Chief of Police and gives him complete power.

The highlight for today was our visit to the Temple of the Tooth, made even more memorable by heavy rain as we removed our shoes and socks and paddled to the entrance...

...which leads to the Drummers' Courtyard.

In this is squeezed the two story main shrine. The entrance to the ground floor of the shrine is flanked by elephant tusks.

On the floor above is the Tooth Relic Chamber. One is not allowed entry to the chamber, which contains the casket in which the venerated tooth is kept. The legend has it that it is the tooth of Buddha, rescued after his cremation in 543 BC. In the 4thC AD, when Buddhism was declining in India it was smuggled into Sri Lanka. It then had a rather peripatetic existence of capture by the Indians, reclamation, capture by the Portuguese, who took it to Goa where they pounded it to dust, burnt the dust and cast it into the sea. But it is claimed that was either a replica tooth or miraculously the burnt ashes reassembled themselves and flew back to Sri Lanka. It is supposedly kept here behind the ornate brass door.

At the back of the Drummers' Courtyard is the New Shrine Room containing many images of Buddha, many donated by other countries.

Around this there is a sequence of 21 paintings depicting the story of the tooth relic from Buddha's death to the present day.

We then exited through the wet Courtyard, retrieved our shoes and socks and made our way back to the bus.

Then on to an excellent lunch at a local Oakray hotel with entertainment provided by a troop of drummers, dancers and acrobats.

On the way back we stopped for a short visit to the Royal Botanical Gardens.

There Dharmin very expertly showed us some of his favourite plants. Here the Canarum row with their extraordinary wide, stone-like roots...

...and the Cannon Ball Tree. Dharmin joked that it gave them a ready supply of ammunition when the British invaded them to oust the Portuguese.

And finally a stop at a spice garden where we were sold the benefits of the herbs and spices there. Then the inevitable shop on the way out, where Chris bought some rejuvenation pills.

Then our final return to Minerva for this cruise and completion of packing for disembarkation early next morning. Chris and Annie with Clodagh then fly back to the UK while John, Liz and I fly up to Delhi for our Golden Triangle tour.

Robert Cole