I started every day when not going out early on an excursion with a brisk walk around the Promenade Deck, of which one circuit is about 1/8th of a mile. I normally did 16 circuits over 1/2 an hour. There were generally a few other walkers and a couple who walked at about the same pace as me and it occasionally became competitive as we sped round attempting to catch up and pass the one in front.
We met for breakfast those of our group who chose to get up early enough - normally all of us but Chris is 'not good in the mornings'!
There would always be at least one lecture in the mornings we were at sea. The lecturers, as usual on Minerva, were very good. Probably the best for me was Dr Robert Bradnock, a geographer specialising in the Indian Continent and, coincidentally we have mutual friends in Chris and Neta Foote. Always entertaining was Sir Roy Strong who talked about Indian architecture and art. The Rev'd Professor Judith Brown (shown here) is an historian of South Asia but also an ordained Anglican and spoke on both historical and religious matters. The fourth lecturer, Joanna Hardy, is a gemmologist and jewellery specialist - more Clodagh's subject than mine. The lectures were designed to fit well with our cruise were always informative and thought provoking.
Having had our thoughts provoked there was time for reflection, maybe about the period here of the British Raj from the late 18th C to Independence in 1947. Only about 150,000 British ruled 250m Indians. As far as conditions allowed they lived in India as if they were at home, although social developments were about a generation behind those at home. At first British women didn't come to India and the men often married Indians or took mistresses. Anglo Indian children were at first treated as socially acceptable. In the 19th C British women started to come to India in what were known as the 'fishing fleet'. If they were unsuccessful in finding husbands they went back in 'returned empties'! There was a strict social hierarchy with an etiquette of social entertaining which must be adhered to. The women had a life of running a household, dependant on status, with up to many hundreds of servants. It was predominantly a man's life and women were treated as an adjunct, leading a life of little but gossip, which most women today would regard as utterly boring.
Lunch was normally on deck and maybe we would talk about the poverty we've seen on our excursions - people living in little more than shacks but often next to grander looking properties. We'd been told that 40% of the population exist on 20 rupees per day (about 21p).
Clodagh and Annie could often be found in the craft group in the afternoon, which they both much enjoyed, or Clodagh might relax in our cabin.
For me maybe another lecture, possibly by Sir Roy Strong seen here appropriately dressed on one of our excursions, or time for reading, writing these notes or more reflection - perhaps on the caste system. Some of the guides seemed anxious to convey to us that the caste system no longer operated, as it is now illegal. But it was clear from many other comments they made that such social divisions still very much exist in practice. Our lecturers and other independent observers believe caste is still an important social factor, which will take much more time to change.
We always met the others in one of the bars for pre dinner drinks or a couple of times they came to our cabin, as we get provided with some free booze.
Dinner is in the Swan Restaurant, where we are served - there is also, one deck up, a self service buffet, which we normally use at lunch time.
After dinner entertainment is often available and/or drinks and dancing in the top deck Orpheus Bar. After which to bed and of course time for further reflection....
Robert Cole
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