Today we have a long coach journey from Jaipur back to the Delhi hotel we left three days previously. We leave the Pink City, built by the Maharajahs, as we pass through one of its gates.
Kapil told us a story demonstrating the opulence of the Maharajahs, who once ruled here. On Independence there was a big change for the princes; they stayed Maharajahs but only in title. One of them, while in England, took a stroll and saw a showroom selling Rolls Royces. The doorman saw a man in a turban and odd dress and refused to admit him. Back in India he ordered 5 RRs. On delivery he cut the top off the cars and used each of them for transporting cattle feed. He then complained to RR that they didn't suit. The supplier agreed to take them back - not having seen their changed state. The Maharajah had made a point of never having got into any of them. Kapil suggested a not untypical story of the Maharajahs' eccentric opulence.
The journey was beset with the usual traffic problems. Kapil said he had been travelling this Jaipur/Delhi road for 15 years during which promises had been made to upgrade it and much money had been poured into it. Projects were started and never completed, contractors went bankrupt and nothing whatsoever had changed.
A many stationed toll had been constructed with some booths for cash and others for credit cards. But people disregarded the difference, got into the wrong lines, didn't have the right payment, argued with the toll operator while long queues built up behind. It had to be abandoned as unworkable!
As we neared Delhi, we saw modern factories and office blocks, which Kapil said had all been built in the last few years and creating new towns of modern apartment blocks around them. So it seems progress is occurring alongside the chaos.
We reached Delhi in time to tour the elegant verdant area of New Delhi. Now it houses India's president, ministers and officials, as well as its Parliament and ministries. Designed by Lutyens for the British, it still follows the Imperial hierarchical conventions, with Indian ministers and officials living in spacious bungalows on broad tree-shaded avenues and no high-rise buildings allowed. Plus ca change...
Security was tight around the government buildings and we were not allowed to stop. We were able to park near India Gate, which commemorates Indian and British soldiers who had died in World War 1 and other wars.
Nearby is a sandstone canopy, which originally housed King George V's statue - now moved to Coronation Park.
There were large crowds around the Gate, where an eternal flame burns in memory of unknown soldiers who died in the 1971 Indo-Pakistan War.
Preparations had already started for the annual Republic Day Parade, although not till 26th January. This has been held since 1950 on the anniversary of India becoming a republic and is apparently a popular event of dashingly dressed, marching regiments and military bands, attended by President, Prime Minister and other dignatories.
To our hotel for our final evening meal together and repacking for our flight back to UK in the morning and the end of a memorable Golden Triangle Tour.
Robert Cole
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